These are just up the valley in Vrysses, both of them closed and still under construction of course, but they look very nicely done; an old family concern which has been going for 150 years, and which has decided to preserve the old way of doing things so the old skills won't get completely forgotten.

The taverna offers giajourt meli - thick yoghurt with honey and walnuts, you eat it with a spoon like a dessert - thoroughly delicious, 25 SKr / 3 USD.

A real village with 50 shops on both sides of a single street, like Tisbury where I lived in Wiltshire, even a tractor and trailer parked in the street ...

And so up the mountain and over towards the southern side of Crete.