The map shows a monastery in the hills just above the village of Fones, but I can't find it; another church, though, the same silver and silk furnishings, odd that they feel the need for a microphone in such a tiny room ...

But this is a real mountain village, old houses made of stone rather than concrete, a normal number of people waving and smiling at me the stranger, cars, dogs, there's even work, evidently, from a nearby quarry.

Just a few goats in a scrubby field, but a flock of 100 sheep and twice as many lambs; I get to understand from the shepherd that they aren't milked but for meat; and he's actually singing, what Dagmar calls 'hot-garlic music', just for himself as far as I can see. Otherwise there's rather a lot of shouting and whistling, the effect of which is to scatter the sheep into a variety of sub-flocks and directions, and when it goes quiet I can't see any improvement in the scheme of things which might have made the shepherd satisfied ...

I've now seen both oranges and olives growing on trees - both rather small sorts, and rather sparse.