The main guest house where most of us stayed - simple comfort

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Of course a lot can happen in two generations, but somehow I was surprised how much more Estonian than Swedish the houses were - the veranda window-frames, high-pitched roofs, "snickarglädje" - 'carpenter's joy' - carvings low down over the stone foundations.

Certainly the village hall announces its culinary function first in Swedish and then in Estonian - "Köket - Köök" - but that recent gesture to tourism hardly changes the basic atmosphere.