Small, but with a balcony overlooking the harbour, the waves of the Libyan Sea to lull me to sleep - it seems clear that the night will be warm enough to leave the doors open...

He says 5,000:- drachmas straight away, so I just say OK; on the inside of the door it says the off-season price is twice that ...

Very different from last night's - clean, almost cozy, the balcony makes all the difference ...
Shame there aren't any actual boats in the harbour, but there are at least a few people around.

There's even a neighbour, sitting on his balcony drying his socks, smoking, listening to Bob Dylan ...

Sunset and all, and the islands of Gavdos and Gavdopoula rising up mountainously on the horizon - another one of my putative goals, indeed inhabited in the winter but only irregularly visited by Cretans out of the tourist season, and by the same token no longer a goal for me ...

Fascinatingly enough, here on the edge of the desert, there's a small truck with a load of live sheep setting off up the mountain-side towards the county town of Xania. Turns out they fence in a piece of the mountain-side and feed them on imported feed, sending them off to the city abattoir an-hour-and-a-half's drive away.

I also meet the baker's wife, who has run a Greek restaurant in Cleveland, Ohio for 7 years, and has come back to her home village, permanent population 600, because she simply couldn't stand it in Cleveland any more ...